Mackerel Crudo
I’m a self-admitted food groupie of Chef Michael White. I adore his food, his passion for perfect pasta and his wide range of restaurants to fit any mood.
We were finally able to secure a weekend table at one of Chef White’s upscale establishments, Marea, and celebrated my birthday there with friends. By ‘celebrated’, I mean both my special day and the best the ocean has to offer. Marea, “tide” in Italian, serves the freshest fish and shellfish sourced from around the globe.
Lobster and Burrata
Our party opted for the four-course prix fixe menu – Crudo, Ostriche or Antipasto / Pasta / Pesce or Carne / Dolce. Shortly after being seated, we received a plate of Sgombro, crostini topped with cannellini beans and impeccably-fresh pieces of mackerel. What a great way to pique our interest in what was to come.
Twice Cooked Egg Scallop Sausage
The four course menu begins with a crudo, an oyster or antipasto. Crudos, sliced raw fish or shellfish, range from Long Island fluke with lemon and caper to pacific butterfish with squash hazelnuts and cranberry. The oysters are from the east and west coast of the United States and come with either a Morellino mignonette or a cucumber-lemon vinaigrette. The antipasto selections we sampled were the Astice, Nova Scotia lobster and burrata with basil, Uovo, twice cooked egg paired with a shrimp and scallop sausage, lentils and spinach and the Fegato, foie gras terrine with black truffles, winter fruits and hazelnuts. Whoever said fish and cheese shouldn’t be paired was wrong as the pristine lobster and rich burrata were divine. The freshness of the ingredients, the finesse of the preparations and the creativity of the presentation are undoubtedly what have earned Chef White and Marea two Michelin stars and the 2010 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant.
Black Sea Bass
Chef White is well-known for his mastery of fresh pasta and the pasta menu at Marea makes it difficult for guests to make a selection. Our table opted for the Spaghetti with crab, Santa Barbara sea urchin and basil, the Caramelle, short rib-filled ravioli with a red wine sugo, celery root and foie gras emulsion and the Agnello E Acciuga, a braised lamb risotto. I’d be hard-pressed to pick a favorite. The spaghetti is perfectly-cooked and unctuous from the lightly briny sea urchin, the short rib ravioli feature paper-thin pasta and is rich and comforting. The risotto is creamy and topped with lamb that’s nearly caramelized in texture then sprinkled with slightly vinegary capers – brilliant.
Short Rib Ravioli
Red Snapper
During our visit, the seasonal fish offering ranged from Holland turbot to grilled cuttlefish. Fish we enjoyed are the Spigola Nera, black sea bass with fregola sarda, cipollini and broccoli rabe and the Red Snapper with hedgehog mushrooms, sour cherries and Savoy cabbage. The black bass was perhaps the best rendition of this fish I’ve had. The red snapper was thick-cut, moist and smartly-paired with earthy mushrooms and tart cherries, just masterdly done.
For the carnivores who dine at Marea, there are a couple solid options like the Faraona, Guinea hen with royal trumpets and sunchokes and the Bistecca, a 50-day dry aged sirloin with bone-marrow panzanella.
The wine list is extensive and features over 750 selections, of which half are whites from Europe that pair beautifully with the fish and seafood. We sipped two wines with dinner and particularly loved the 2010 Quintodecimo Giallo d’Arles, recommended by the sommelier.
Desserts are not to be missed. Our party savored the Strati Di Cioccolato, dark chocolate crema with salted caramel and fior di latte gelato and the Torta Di Oilio, olive oil cake with roasted pineapple and olive oil gelato.
Superb cuisine, professional service, award-winning wine program in a non-snooty, relaxed atmosphere. That’s you’ll experience at Marea.
240 Central Park South
New York, NY 10019
212-582-5100
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