Dining Room Photo credit: Eat with Dan
A few weeks back, I dined (experienced) Atera with fellow foodies – a classically-trained chef and a food photographer. I say ‘experience’ as it was just that, from booking a reservation a month in advance to being warmly-greeted in the small foyer, to being led to the dining room, to being seated at the chef’s counter to the ordering and the food itself – wow, just wow.
Atera, located in the Tribeca neighborhood of Manhattan, is the brainchild of Chef Matthew Lightner and his team. Nebraska-born Lightner is a Western Culinary Institute-graduate who staged at Noma in Copenhagen and reshaped the fine dining scene in Portland, Oregon.
Toasted Grain Broth Photo credit: Eat with Dan
The wine program is attentive with a great selection of half bottles that lend themselves perfectly to a tasting menu. We opted for the 2011 Chablis, Domaine William Fèvre, Vaillons, 1er Cru, a beautiful young wine with great minerality, light fruit and fresh citrus notes. My party agreed that with the imaginative food being served that wine took a significant backseat – something I have not experienced often during a luxurious meal.
The chef’s tasting menu features 20+ perfectly-executed bites that leave diners surprised, in awe and smiling. The care in preparation, execution and service is simply stellar and warrants the $195 price tag associated with the tasting. The open kitchen, nearly steps away from our seats, provided a glimpse into the level of details and meticulousness that goes into each dish. The kitchen team encompassed many players perfectly in-sync with each other reminiscing of a well-choreographed staged production.
Hushpuppy.
Photo credit: Eat with Dan
For the sake of keeping my recap less superfluous that it would be if each masterly-crafted bite was individually-detailed, I will share some highlights.
Toasted Grain Broth with guanciale and winter greens – this was the amuse-bouche and the earthy, deeply-flavored broth set the tone for the rest of the meal.
Hushpuppy with smoked yolk and pickled corn – innocent in appearance but once bitten into, the smoked yolk is mind-altering. Perhaps the bite of the evening.
Lobster Roll on meringues – getting this clever take on the New England favorite was like being handed cotton candy as a 5-year old. Made us smile in delight.
Pig’s Blood Flatbread with marrow and vinegar – crunchy, velvety and rich with a touch of acidity – sinfully delicious. Perhaps the bite of the evening – yes, I have said this already.
Lobster Rolls
Photo credit: Eat with Dan
Sorbet of lime, grapefruit, blood orange and mandarin – perfect transition from savory to sweet and simply stunning on the plate.
One might think that with a meal of this caliber, bread would not be a focus, but it was. Various breads and butters were served throughout the meal that reinforced the attention to detail Atera provides.
Our group had many close-your-eyes-and-emit-a-small-moan moments during the dinner. The chef in our party gave us an insider’s view into the possible techniques used to prepare each dish which made our meal even more enjoyable.
Sorbets
Photo credit: Eat with Dan
The three of us have been to many outstanding restaurants and have enjoyed countless spectacular meals but Atera holds a special place at the very apex of the list. Chef Lightner and his team deserve all the accolades they are garnering since the opening of Atera. We cannot wait to see what comes next for this talented visionary in the future.
Atera – 77 Worth Street, New York, NY 10013. 212-226-1444.
Cheers,
Veronique
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