I’m typically the one to take the lead on planning our dinners out among my friends, so when someone else researches and books a reservation at a new place, I am thrilled.  One of my girlfriends did just that this past weekend: she asked for recommendations for a foodie-worthy restaurant in Brooklyn, and we ended up at Locanda Vini & Olii in Clinton Hill.

The restaurant is located on a mostly residential street with no sign outside beyond the old drug store sign still hanging memorializing its 103 years in business.  I immediately know I will love this place.  The space is cozy and every guest is made to feel like family.  When I say you will feel like family here, I do not mean like a popular chain of “Italian” restaurants says you will, I mean that the whole staff is truly here to cater to its clientele.

The wine list is featured on the labels of three wine bottles: a white list, a red list and a reserve list.  There are many affordable options to consider, even on the reserve list, and the Sommelier and Part-Owner, Rocco Spagnardi, recommended a magnum of 2009 Enzo Boglietti Dolcetto d’Alba Tiglineri ($82) that he says will be more affordable than two standard size bottles.  The restaurant apparently stocks up on magnums, and although I typically do not lean towards large format bottles (except for sparkling wine), we opt for this recommendation.  The wine is nice with an enjoyable dry finish.

The chef and Part-Owner, Florence native Michele Baldacci, offers a four-course, $45 tasting menu where he will prepare dishes for the table to share of his own liking.  What a super, and affordable, idea.  I’ll be sure to select this on my next visit.  Our table of five diners opted for a variety of antipasti and a few primi and secondi dishes.  The portion sizes are perfect and reflective of what you would find in Italy – hurray!

Charcuterie Della Terra

For our antipasti, we selected the Beef Tongue ($9), the Charcuterie Del Mare ($18) and the meat version, Charcuterie Della Terra ($18).  The tongue, served with salsa verde, was perhaps the best interpretation I have had.  Both the seafood platter with its octopus Sopresatta and the meat platter with its succulent duck and prune terrina feature top quality items, not typical of most antipasti found in America.  The beef served at Locanda Vini & Olii is Certified Piedmontese Beef and the chef only uses free-range meats and eggs.

Some outstanding primi options are the Saffron Guitar Strings ($14.25) and the Tagliatelle Al Ragu with Orange Zest ($15.25).  The guitar strings pasta dish features mashed fresh sardines, pine nuts and raisins – what a dish!  The Tagliatelle is paired with a rich meat sauce encompassing braised Piedmontese beef and Berkshire pork – layers of amazing flavors.

For the secondi, we selected the Branzino with Shallots ($26.50) and the Seafood Stew ($25).  The Branzino is served over braised fennel and the seafood in the stew was very fresh and prepared expertly by Chef Michele in the open kitchen.

Ten years after its opening, Locanda Vini & Olii still offers a modern twist on Italian favorite desserts and also a cheese plate ($14) featuring a four-cheese selection of perfectly room-temperature stars.  This might be the best cheese plate I have had outside of Italy.

The wait staff is extremely courteous and exudes a real passion for the food masterly-prepared by the talented chef and his crew.  We had the pleasure of meeting Chef Michele as he left the bustling kitchen to come greet us.  What a humble guy who appears truly happy to be preparing his type of food in such an inviting atmosphere.

Is there an Italian restaurant serving better, non-fussy, rustic and delicious fare in Brooklyn?  I doubt it.  Is Locanda Vini & Olii worth the drive from Manhattan (or anywhere for that matter)?  Absolutely.

129 Gates Ave (@ Cambridge Place)

Brooklyn, NY 11238

(In the old “Lewis Drug Store”)

718-622-9202