Bar

My bi-yearly Finger Lakes pilgrimages are usually focused on sampling the new wine vintages, checking in with favorite wineries and enjoying the picturesque surroundings. What they don’t typically include – mind-blowing food. Yes, there are a couple decent restaurants in this beautiful part of the country, but nothing to write home (or on my blog) about. This all changed during my September visit when I discovered FLX Table.

Chef and certified master sommelier Christopher Bates and his very hospitable wife, Isabel Bogadtke, recently opened FLX Table in Geneva, NY. Bates also owns FLX Weinery and Element Winery in Arkport, NY. Bates cooks up the magic while Bogadtke tends to the front of the house and to food/wine sourcing.

We arrived for our reservation (do make a reservation) on time and were escorted to a bar area where we were told our table wasn’t quite ready. The dining room consists of a 12-person communal table, so Bates and Bogadtke are somewhat at the mercy of the first seating to leave to sit the next. Did we care? Not in the least, and especially not when greeted with sparkling wine and a giant slab of Manchego cheese! Smart, simply smart service. What further set the tone for the lovely meal to come was Bates pouring us an ultra-flavorful bowl of smoked chicken bone broth. Welcoming and comforting!

Bubbles and Manchego

When we made our way to the table, we were taken aback by the bounty of farm-stand vegetables and fruits displayed on a tree trunk platter. This presentation is dubbed the Farmers Board. Bodadtke told us the presentation was meant to get conversations started between guests who might not know each other – love this idea. The array of produce consisted of yellow and green beans, cauliflower, endive, radishes, ground cherries, raspberries and more then served with a couple of dressings, including a delicious green goddess.

As if we weren’t already experiencing an amazing start to our meal, next came a crusty and warm loaf of sourdough bread served with extra-addictive schmaltz, fresh burrata and brown butter. Like my guest and I, you’ll likely be inclined to devour the whole display but don’t, the four-course meal that comes next deserves your full appetite.

The second course was named Uber B.L.T. and consisted of tomato, sweet summer corn and lamb bacon. The presentation was glorious with a pool of tomato water in the bowl of the plate and beautifully-arranged raw and dried tomatoes, the bacon and corn then avocado and Thai basil. The combination of creamy avocado, sweet crunchy corn, raw tomatoes, crispy bacon and crunchy dried tomatoes was a cacophony of textures and flavors. I remember thinking to myself that there was no way Bates would be able to top that dish, but I was wrong.

The third course was the Potato. There was nothing modest about the modestly-named dish – pickled and roasted chanterelles, black garlic, cottage cheese and a raclette fondue gilded the tiny creamer potatoes. I think about this dish, a lot.

Fourth course was Lots of Duck – a multi-preparation of duck – melt-in-your-mouth duck heart medallion, seared duck breast and a slab of foie. The accompaniments were roasted carrot, seabeans, farro and dehydrated black olive (genius).

The dessert course was Blueberries and consisted of pungent curry iced yogurt, lemon cake and candied quinoa. We loved how Chef used flavor-packed blueberry juice to soak the lemon cake in.  

I’d be remiss to not spend some time writing about the wines. Bates is a master somm and the list basically rocks with many interesting, unusual wines served in 30ml, 150ml and by the bottle. I can’t say enough how smart serving wine in these quantities at a multi-course dinner is. FLX Table uses the best wine gadget of all times – Coravin, that allows the wait staff to pour a tasting size serving of wine by inserting a needle-like contraption through the cork in the bottle keeping the wine intact for future enjoyment. We opted for two of the three suggested wine pairings: The Fun ($35) and the Baller ($55). Both options offered us wines we absolutely enjoyed and we felt were a bargain. On our next visit, I’d like to try the Big P.I.M.P.n wine pairing priced at $150 – amazing, rare juice being poured at the price point.    

This dining extravaganza lasted over two hours with Bates in the open kitchen creating some of the best food I’ve had in recent memory and Isabel offering the warmest, most hospitable service one could expect at a restaurant. One issue – this all cost $49 and I felt like I was robbing the place!

I’m finally looking forward to the Finger Lakes for more than fab dry Riesling and Cab Franc – FLX Table hit high marks on all fronts.

FLX Table – 22 Linden St., Geneva, New York 14456. (315) 730-3083.

Dinner Hours: 3 Courses on Weeknights; 5 Courses on Weekends.

Cheers,

Veronique